Shabbat (the Jewish Sabbath) is one of the most defining rhythms of life in Israel, and understanding it is essential for any visitor. Observed from sundown on Friday until nightfall on Saturday, Shabbat transforms the pace of the country. Streets that buzzed with activity become quiet, shops close, and public transportation largely shuts down. For travelers, this weekly pause can be either a peaceful highlight or a logistical challenge depending on how well you plan for it.
When Shabbat Happens
Shabbat begins at sundown every Friday and ends approximately 25 minutes after sundown on Saturday. Because sunset times change throughout the year, the exact start and end times shift as well. In summer, Shabbat might not begin until after 7:30 PM, giving you most of Friday for activities. In winter, it can start as early as 4:00 PM, cutting the day short.
Hotels and many travel resources post weekly Shabbat candle-lighting times. It is a good practice to note these times at the start of each week so you can plan accordingly.
What Closes During Shabbat
The extent of Shabbat closures varies significantly depending on where you are in Israel.
Jerusalem and Religious Areas
Jerusalem observes Shabbat more strictly than most other cities. Starting Friday afternoon, expect the following:
- Most shops, restaurants, and cafes close, particularly in Jewish neighborhoods
- The Mahane Yehuda market (the shuk) shuts down Friday afternoon
- Public buses and light rail stop running
- Many museums and attractions close or have limited hours
- Streets in religious neighborhoods may be blocked to vehicle traffic
Tel Aviv and Secular Areas
Tel Aviv takes a more relaxed approach to Shabbat. While public buses do not run, many restaurants, cafes, and bars remain open. The beach is active, and the city maintains a lively weekend atmosphere. Some shops, particularly in tourist areas, stay open as well.
Other Cities
Most cities fall somewhere between Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. Haifa, for example, is known for maintaining some public transportation on Shabbat. Tourist areas in Eilat, Tiberias, and other resort towns tend to keep more services available than inland cities.
Getting Around on Shabbat
The biggest practical impact of Shabbat for travelers is transportation. Public buses (Egged and Dan) and trains operated by Israel Railways do not run from Friday afternoon through Saturday evening. Here are your options:
- Taxis and ride-sharing: Taxis operate throughout Shabbat, though fares increase by approximately 25 percent on Shabbat and holidays. Ride-sharing apps like Gett function as well.
- Rental cars: If you have a rental car, you can drive freely on Shabbat. Be cautious in ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods where roads may be closed to traffic.
- Sherut (shared taxis): Some shared taxi services operate limited routes on Shabbat, particularly between major cities like Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.
- Walking: Many of Israel’s cities are walkable, and a Shabbat stroll through quiet streets can be a memorable experience.
- Hotel shuttles: Some hotels offer shuttle services to key attractions on Shabbat. Check with your accommodation in advance.
Experiencing Shabbat as a Cultural Highlight
Rather than viewing Shabbat purely as an inconvenience, consider embracing it as one of Israel’s most unique cultural experiences.
Attend a Shabbat Dinner
A traditional Friday night Shabbat dinner is one of the most meaningful cultural experiences available to visitors. Many hotels host Shabbat dinners, and some local organizations arrange dinners where tourists can join Israeli families. The meal typically includes candle lighting, blessings over wine and challah bread, and multiple courses of home-cooked food. It is a warm, welcoming tradition that offers genuine connection.
Visit the Western Wall
The Western Wall (Kotel) on Friday evening is an extraordinary sight. Thousands gather to welcome Shabbat with prayer and singing. The atmosphere is joyful and reverent, and visitors of all backgrounds are welcome to observe or participate. Dress modestly and be aware that photography is not permitted on Shabbat by observant Jews, though tourists taking photos is generally tolerated.
Enjoy the Quiet
There is something remarkable about the stillness that settles over Israeli cities on Shabbat. The absence of traffic, the quiet streets, and the slower pace offer a rare chance to experience the country in a completely different light. Use the time for a leisurely walk, a visit to open parks and nature areas, or simply relaxing at your hotel.
Planning Tips for Shabbat
- Stock up on Friday morning: Buy snacks, water, and any necessities before shops close Friday afternoon.
- Confirm restaurant reservations: Restaurants that stay open on Shabbat can be busy. Reserve in advance.
- Plan activities that do not depend on public transportation: Museums with Saturday hours, parks, beaches, and walking tours are good Shabbat options.
- Check attraction hours carefully: Some sites have abbreviated Shabbat hours or close entirely.
- Respect local customs: In religious neighborhoods, avoid loud music, smoking in public, and using your phone ostentatiously. While these are not laws, they show respect for the community.
After Shabbat
Shabbat ends with Havdalah, a brief ceremony involving wine, spices, and a braided candle that marks the separation between Shabbat and the new week. After Havdalah, the country gradually comes back to life. Shops reopen, public transportation resumes, and streets fill with activity again. Saturday night is one of the most popular nights for dining out and socializing in Israel.
Understanding and planning around Shabbat does not just prevent inconvenience; it opens the door to one of the most authentic aspects of Israeli life.
